So, no real news here. I've got several orders out to various places for
various parts for the MiniMag and the PA50. There is so much to keep
track of now that I've got 2 builds in progress in tandem in my tiny
apartment. For the sake of settling my brain, here's a list of things
to come (or in progress):
• Pit Bike fork tubes from Ebay were too big in diameter to
fit my Magnum EBRs. I'm going to save them for another
project.
• Ordered hydraulic EBR forks with a caliper mount for disc brake
(just came in today)
• Mounted black blank skate deck seat on the magnum with LED
brake light and aluminum bracket (still need to notch out to fit the
tank back onto the frame) I need to pick up a jigsaw to do this.
• My ZA50 performance crank should be arriving at Orphanage this
week. Rather than pulling the old bearings off the stock crank at
the risk of damaging them, Chris Paz is sending some new
bearings. This is the last piece to be completed before putting
together my 64cc Polini case matched ZA50 rebuild. I will probably
smooth out the transfers some more before assembling. Not sure
yet if I'm going to bother with porting the intake. I can always do
that later.
• Once the engine is reassembled, I still need to wire this thing. Then
completely disassemble and powder coat. I need to find a quality
yet affordable shop locally to do this. I'll need to repair and paint
the tank and body panels as well.
• Just now I got in a bunch of OEM Honda parts for the PA50
including brake shoes (front and back), mirrors, floor boards,
air filters, etc. I've also replaced the v-belt. I got these Boyesen
stock replacement reeds and I cannot figure out how to install
them (see photo below)
• PA50 tank is cleaned and has a new petcock.
• Ryan at Orphanage ordered a Honda Proma exhaust for the
Honda. Not sure what kit, intake, carb combo is best for this
bike yet. I'll hold off till I learn more. Plus I need more info on
upgrading the variator.
That's all I can stand to remember for now. I'm sure I missed
something. Oh well, here are some more photos.
i'm excited to see this bike come together, no details spared. i know exactly how you feel with being overwhelmed by multiple projects. the only thing that's kept me sane is lots of lists and thinking through stuff.
ReplyDeleteyour hobbit reeds install in this order, reedblock -> yellow big windows -> white rectangles -> then reed stop that's in the packaging. you ditch your stock metal reeds and the big curved reed stop. make sure when you tighten your new reeds down to use red loctite and that there aren't any gaps between your reeds or reedblock. you want a complete seal.
for kits, the parma kit is insane (it's what nate ran on the not-o-becain). not totally sure on the other ones, it depends if you want some racier or conservative.
Thanx man! It's been an evolving process. Things definitely need to be thought and rethought out. You can't just buy a bunch of parts and just slap them on. Definitely a step by step process.
ReplyDeleteOh sweet! I wouldn't have thought to get rid of the stock reed stop. Do i need to worry about the red threadlocker eating away at the reed material? Probably not right? Thanx again for the tip!
I'll look into that parma kit. I want something something that will work with the proma pipe. I need to figure out what size intake/carb would work best as well. Think I'll just get this thing running stockish with the upgraded reeds, belt, and pipe till the minimag is complete, tuned, and painted. Then who knows...
Want to borrow my jigsaw?
ReplyDeleteno need to worry about the loctite eating away at the reeds. the beauty of hobbits is that virtually every kit works amazing with the proma pipe. the only exception could be the athena, which does better with a bigger motion left or motomatic pipe.
ReplyDeletei'm doing the exact same thing (stock cylinder, proma, stock carb) on my hobbit, it's the essential buddy hobbit setup. peter's blog has an amazing wealth of hobbit information. here's his post on buddy hobbits: http://peterbilt.wordpress.com/2009/11/16/peters-formula-1-the-buddy-hobbit/. he also has a rad post detailing all the hobbit kits.
for the variator upgrade. stick with the stock variator and mod it for more speed. i wrote about mine in this post: http://magnumdash.wordpress.com/2010/01/20/hobbit-conversion/. it's reeeally important to get the ramps perfectly even on both sides and smooth to make it optimally perform. feel free to ask if you have any other questions. someone shared all this stuff with me at some point, and i enjoy passing it on.
Gabe, this is great stuff! Thanks for passing it along. I read about the variator mod in the MA wiki, but your photo is way better. Thanks for the tips, i'll share my progress.
ReplyDelete